Wednesday, July 25, 2007

fashion goes sky-high in new zealand (nzl)

Two budding Wellington designers will unveil their latest collection at a unique in-flight fashion show 30,000 feet up. Rachel Easting and Anjali Stewart will watch their label Love Lies Bleeding take off on the eve of Air New Zealand Fashion Week, starting on September 16.

The sky-high show will be held on an Air New Zealand flight from Sydney to Auckland. The announcement was made yesterday in Auckland, together with the list of designers featuring at fashion week. The show will also preview garments from the collections of Trelise Cooper, Lonely Hearts, Annah Stretton, Carlson, Cybele and Federation.

Passengers will be treated to a champagne breakfast and be given access to the fashion week opening night party. Those confirmed for fashion week include designer heavyweights Karen Walker, Zambesi, and Nom*D.

Easting and Stewart are still riding high on their success at Australian Fashion Week in April, where they interested many buyers and picked up five Australian stores. This will be their New Zealand Fashion Week debut, after establishing their fashion label two years ago.

"Going to fashion week is just going to be so much fun for us as it's our first time that we've designed a collection with the catwalk in mind," Easting said.

Other announcements included a collaboration between contemporary artist Robyn Kahukiwa and fashion week. Kahukiwa is creating 45 individually hand-coloured silk screen prints on Shungetsu paper, valued at $500 each, to be included in VIP delegates' goodie bags.

SOURCE stuff.co.uk

Berkeley designer brings creative juices to clothing

OAKLAND

In a poster-filled abode, a collection of clothing styles overwhelm the room like barnacles attached to a whale. Berkeley native, Adamu Chan, is showing off his visionary designs to the Bay Area.

Chan graduated from the University of California, Berkeley and received a degree in ethnic studies. After coming back from a stint in Japan, the creative juices started to manifest, boiling until ... the birth of Red Clay.

Since 2004, Chan and his partner, the low-key ninja in the shadow who likes to go by "J," have been filling the clothing market with unique and original designs.

"We are a cross between men's contemporary sportswear, (and) what is now called street wear. But even that encompasses a whole bunch of clothing," said Chan, 31, founder of the clothing brand Red Clay. "Some people call it street couture."

Street fashion or couture is a market of independent brands solely sold in boutiques around the world. The brands are high end and in limited edition. The more famous are entertainer Pharrell Williams' Billionaire Boys Club/Ice Cream brand, Bathing Ape and Bay Area's own Huf in San Francisco.

"I think it was a good time for us when we came out when we did because right now there is a lot of small brands coming out right now," said Chan. "Andback in 2004, it was just the beginning of this new era of indie brands."

Aesthetically, Chan was inspired by art deco and men's classic American designers, such as Ralph Lauren.

Red Clay designs start at about $32 for a T-shirt and go up to $600 for a lambskin jacket coming out in the fall.

The development of certain garments takes three to four months to produce said Chan, a self-taught designer.

"The concept starts in your head," he said, adding that from there he works with a pattern maker to develop the pattern for the garment.

The design and fabrication are the next steps, and then first and final samples for viewing at various trade shows. Reps from different dealers around the world examine the designs before mass production begins.

Trade shows, such as Magic in Las Vegas, are important to independent brands like Red Clay because it gives them the chance to show off their innovative designs to dealers.

Based in Oakland, Red Clay is distributed across the United States, all over Europe, Taiwan, Japan, Mexico and elsewhere.

The basic design that Red Clay offers is their graphic tees. The brand also has cut-and-sew styles, an array of hoodies and jackets, denim and even hats. The clothing range in colors and patterns from the basic grays to the more intricate African kente bright color patterns. The staying power of the brand, Chan said, comes from designing for a customer looking for a particular style and "with the range of the clothing we offer, it's a little bit more than other independent brands."

Being an entrepreneur is not easy and being strong in various components of business is important for success. The everyday life experience and grind of managing a business is better than any education, Chan said.

"One thing I feel like we have realized (is) it's not about just having a good product, but every day is a crash course in business 101."

With indie clothing brands springing up everywhere, staying power is essential to a successful entrepreneurship.

"The way you set yourself apart or legitimatize yourself is to make a niche in the market," said Chan.

Red Clay wants to expand to a fuller line and do more lifestyle oriented designs like watches and furniture.

Source: insidebayarea

Victoria Beckham, the new diva in town

LOS ANGELES — It’s her first time going for drinks at the Chateau Marmont, but she negotiates the dark staircase up to the lobby like a pro, using the kind of sidestep one has to perfect when 4-inch Balenciaga heels are everyday footwear.

“Beckham, is it?” the bar hostess asks in a feeble attempt to act nonchalant.

It’s no use. There is just no way not to notice Victoria Beckham. She’s dressed in a black bandage dress by Herve Leger, her legs tanned the color of an Hermes Birkin. The pearshaped diamond ring on her finger has to be the biggest bauble in Hollywood, or maybe it just looks like it on her child-size frame.

She strides into the garden, taking a table in the middle of the action. Settling in for her first sitdown interview since her husband, David, signed a deal potentially worth $250 million to play with the Los Angeles Galaxy of Major League Soccer, she orders Champagne and asks if it would be all right if she keeps her sunglasses on.

Last week the Beckhams and their three boys were moving into the $22-million, 13,000-square-foot Italianate house they bought in Beverly Hills. (“I didn’t want anything too big and ostentatious,” she says, by all indications being serious.) But for months, every detail of their arrival has been engineered to build buzz. The Beckhams hit the Oscar party circuit in February, then announced plans for a reality show in March, which Victoria began filming in May, popping up at various L.A. locations — always with a film crew in tow and always in a head-turning get-up.

Unlike most celebs, she doesn’t dress down in slouchy T-shirts, flip-flops and jeans. Beckham dresses — really dresses — for every occasion.

Her wardrobe notes might read something like this:

June 11: Opening pitch at a Dodgers game — short-shorts and debut of Dries Van Noten platform sneakers.

Jan. 16: Dinner date with Katie at the Ivy — frilly organza Giambattista Valli dress, very ladylike.

June 3: MTV Movie Awards — vintage zebra-print Azzedine Alaia mini with pink satin bra peeking out. So 1980s, so MTV.

Her style isn’t classic and it isn’t driven by trends. It’s daring, at times silly, and British at heart — think Princess Diana, who wore Moschino to meet the Italian president, Escada to Germany and Chanel to France; or the queen, with all those wonderful hats at Ascot.

“I don’t want to change the way I dress,” she says between nibbles of strawberries soaked in balsamic vinegar. “This is me, and if people like it, great.”

But in many ways, she’s already gone L.A. She’s highlighting her brown hair blond, launching her own denim line, promoting her own reality show, decorating a house in the hills and gearing up for a reunion tour with her old band, the Spice Girls. Did she miss even one stereotype? Well, she doesn’t have a stylist — yet.

“I get quite bored with the way people look the same all the time, with the same makeup and the same outfit and the same kind of hair. I like to change things around quite a bit,” she says, explaining that she works with stylists for magazine shoots only. But for personal appearances, “I prefer to do it myself.”

She’s worn nearly every designer you can think of and she’s kept everything — the red Roland Mouret dress she wore to the Costume Institute ball at the Met, the white Alaia Academy Awards gown fitted by the master himself in Paris as a birthday present from David, even her Spice Girls costumes.

“Victoria is a true fashion lover,”Mouret says. “She will never say ‘no’ to trying an outfit.”

Hundreds of pieces will remain at her home outside London in a closet her friends compare to a Gucci store, with its shiny black fixtures and gray carpeting.

“I would love to have a record of everything I wore on every occasion,” she says. “If I wasn’t so busy with the children, I would love to do that.” (The Beckhams have three sons, Brooklyn, 8, Romeo, 4, and Cruz, 2.)

At the house in L.A., she’s made room for lots of jeans and handbags. She owns dozens from Hermes, including a fuchsia ostrich Birkin bought recently at auction. “I haven’t ever used it,” she says. “I think of them as an investment. And someday, when I’m lucky enough to have a girl, I will pass them along to her.”

Her most sentimental piece is the original black dress she wore as a Spice Girl. “Everyone thought it was Gucci, but it cost about 20 pounds. Gucci got so much publicity from it, you’d think I would have at least gotten a bag,” she says. The dress actually came from Miss Selfridge, a cheap chic chain in London.

Beckham, 33, has loved fashion since grade school.

“I tried to customize my school uniform, because I went to a very strict Church of England school. I used to get sent into the toilet every single day at school to take off my makeup and brush my hairspray out.

“My hair was so big in the 1980s,” she continues, “I went to the theater once and the person behind asked if I could flatten my hair because they couldn’t see.”

Olivia Newton-John in “Grease” was an inspiration. “Remember when she wore those tight black satin trousers? One of my mom’s friends promised me those and she never came up with the goods. I still look at her and say, ‘You cow!’ You should never promise a child something and not come up with it.”

So she’s designed a pair for the holiday collection of her dVb line.

Her sunglasses, in stores since April, are based on vintage styles inspired by Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Onassis and Farrah Fawcett. And now they’re being worn by some of today’s most stylish women, who happen to be Beckham’s pals, including Katie Holmes, Elle Macpherson and Jennifer Lopez. “This is just the beginning,” she says.

Source: buffalonews

Monday, July 16, 2007

Sassy lingerie

Australian fashion designers Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke of Sass Bide are set to launch a new lingerie line next month, exposing their stylish designs to a wider market.

The range, in association with popular bra brand Lovable, has proved a labour of love for the pair, who supported each other through Middleton's battle with breast cancer.

The 36 year old was stunned after she was told she required a lumpectomy - 12 hours after the birth of her second daughter, Elke, in February.

A course of chemotherapy followed her surgery, with Middleton skipping the brand's US show and recent promotional visit to rest and recuperate.

The Lovable collaboration is expected to sell through David Jones, where the label's fashion range is available exclusively, from August.

Source: skynews.com

Celebs Attend Tribute to Gianni Versace

Naomi Campbell, Jessica Alba and Claudia Schiffer were among the celebrities who attended a ballet at La Scala in memory of Gianni Versace, who was murdered 10 years ago.

"Thank you, Gianni, With Love," performed Sunday night, was the highlight of a series of events marking the anniversary of the Italian designer's death. He was gunned down outside his Miami Beach, Fla., mansion on July 15, 1997, by Andrew Cunanan, who killed himself a few days later.

Versace's sexy and daring clothes made him a favorite among rockers, Hollywood stars and other celebrities.

Maurice Bejart, who enjoyed a long professional collaboration and close friendship with Versace, wrote the ballet. It featured stage costumes designed by Versace over the years, as well as those created for the performance by his sister, Donatella Versace.

Donatella Versace, who attended the ballet with her daughter, Allegra Beck Versace, took over design at the fashion house after her brother's death.

Celebrities attending the red-carpet event also included Rupert Everett, Karl Lagerfeld and Claude Lelouch.

Other events commemorating Versace's death include an exhibit of his sketches and theater costumes installed on Milan streets and the establishment of a scholarship in his honor at the European Institute of Design in Milan.

Source: sfgate.com


SPFW gets an eco twist


Launching its 23rd edition at Bienal's building, the São Paulo Fashion Week started on June 13th and finished on 19th with highly emotional collections. The event began with focus on the issue of saving water.

Lino Villlaventura displayed the 'white look' in patches of rich fabrics. The models wore dramatic make-up and head gears, giving the collection a sophisticated touch. Another high point was Ronaldo's show based on a Brazilian theme, a subject that he excels in. This year, he chose the life of Nara, the famous singer and political activist of the 50s who seemed to have heavily influenced the designer.

For the first time in its eleven years of existence, Calendário Ofiacial da Moda Brasileira São Paulo Fashion Week had a special teaching institution partner — Senac. During the event, Senac demonstrated educational exhibits evolving fashion, gastronomy, environment information and photography and enterprise movements.

Raia De Goeye's was a spectacular show apart. It took spectators to another part of the big city, out of SPFW frontiers, to see precious details like silver make-up cases developed by Lancôme exclusive for the brand. Afro Reggae's, a young label that came from an ONG project and has as its main stylist, Marcelo Sommer, decorated Ibirapuera's auditorium with incredible art toys during its show.

Source: fibre2fashion

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Chinese roll up for condom fashion show


BEIJING - Condoms of all shapes and sizes were on display at a Beijing fashion show yesterday featuring dresses, hats and even lollipops made of the said item.

Models fought through extravagant soap bubble special effects to show off tight-fitting wedding gowns, scaly-looking evening dresses, outrageous bikinis and other garments made entirely of condoms, inflated or otherwise.

The show was held at the Fourth China Reproductive Health New Technologies and Products Expo and organized by China's largest condom manufacturer, Guilin Latex Factory, to promote the use of condoms in the fight against HIV/AIDS.

It also marked World Population Day, organized annually by the UN Population Fund.

China, with a population now of 1.3 billion, introduced a strict one-child policy in the late 1970s under which many residents are restricted to one child.

"One (child) is not enough -- two are better," said visitor Song Weiliang.

But the main aim of the condom show was to promote AIDS awareness.

China originally stigmatized AIDS as a disease of the decadent, capitalist West -- a problem of gays, sex workers and drug users. Traditionally, none of these officially existed in communist China.

It has belatedly woken up to the problem, and health experts have warned the virus is now moving into the general population. But a lack of sex education and unwillingness to talk about sex still hampers the fight, health experts say.

Source: nzherald.co.nz / reuters

Rome Fashion Show bars 15 'too skinny' models


FIFTEEN models were kicked out of a Rome fashion show today for being too thin, sparking new debate on anorexia in the fashion industry.

"I asked that girls with abnormal measurements shouldn't work ... (and) had to fire 15 who were under (French) size 36 (US size eight)," Raffaella Curiel told reporters.

"One girl fainted during the trials," he said, adding, "I had to give her a ham sandwich."

Curiel said his fashion house wanted to respect rules developed in December to combat anorexia among fashion models, but added: "It's not our fault if (agencies) send us girls who are too skinny."

Under the new rules, girls under 16 cannot take to the catwalk, and models must produce a certificate proving that they have no eating disorders.

Meanwhile, models under 16 will be banned from London Fashion Week catwalks under new rules proposed today.

A panel of experts set up to investigate health problems among models also called for greater protection for 17 and 18 year-olds, including chaperoning at shows.

But the independent Model Health Inquiry set up in the wake of the size zero debate ruled out weighing all models because it had been ineffective in other countries.

Panel members called for a rigorous scientific study into the prevalence of eating disorders among fashion models.

During the inquiry, they heard from many models who told of the fear of not being selected for work because they were not thin enough, according to Panel chairwoman Baroness Kingsmill.

In particular, they want more information on whether a minimum body mass index (BMI) requirement of 18.5 should be introduced for London Fashion Week models.

This approach has already been adopted by Madrid fashion week.

In its interim report published today, the panel called for a detailed investigation into models working conditions and outlined a positive case for setting up a union for the modelling profession.

The panel said models under 16 were particularly vulnerable. It mentioned the risk of children being sexually exploited when they were made to represent adult women.

Launching the interim report today, Kingsmill said: "The panel has set out an approach designed to protect vulnerable young workers in an industry which appears to be glamorous but which has hidden risks and that for all practical purposes is largely unregulated and unmonitored."

She added: "... members of the panel became increasingly concerned as we heard more details about the working conditions faced by many models and the vulnerability of young women working in an unregulated and scarcely-monitored work environment.

"We have been given startling medical evidence about the prevalence and impact of eating disorders in certain high-risk industries.

"Working conditions for models are far from transparent and there is a worrying lack of information about the overall profession.

The College of Psychiatrists told the panel that models with a BMI of below 18.5 which means they are underweight - should be banned from the catwalk.

But other respondents said BMI did not help identify the eating disorder bulimia nervosa.

Kingsmill added: "There was also strongly expressed concern that it is profoundly inappropriate that girls under 16, under the age of consent, should be portrayed as adult women. The risk of sexualising these children was high and designers could risk charges of sexual exploitation."

The inquiry is requesting responses to its interim report. Its final report, along with a final set of recommendations is due to be published in September, when the next London Fashion Week takes place.

Recent controversy over skinny models was sparked in August 2006, when Uruguayan model Luisel Ramos, 22, died of heart failure after not eating for several days.

Her death was followed in November by that of Ana Carolina Reston, a Brazilian model who suffered from anorexia.

Madrid Fashion Week last year banned models with a BMI of less than 18 from taking part.

Doctors use the index, which is a ratio of height to weight, to calculate the healthy size for an individual.

The debate about the US size zero - the equivalent of a UK size four - was caused by celebrities dieting down to the super-thin size.

Source: news.com.au

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

SOUTH AFRICA: Heritage custodian launches clothing range

South African heritage custodian The Ifa Lethu Foundation has launched a range of fashion clothing created by local designers Karen Monk Klijnstra, Steve Mandy, Bonga Bhengu and Gugu Msimang.

The Heritage Collection was launched at the MTN Durban Fashion Week. Among those who attended the event were model and Survivor SA winner Vanessa Marawa and Durban's deputy mayor Logi Naidoo.

Source: marketingweb.co.za

ROUNDUP Marks & Spencer Q1 sales growth slows

Marks & Spencer Group PLC, the fashion and food retailer, reported an anticipated slowdown in underlying sales growth for its first quarter, blaming May and June's dismal weather, recent interest rate rises and uncertainty over consumer spending but its performance in non-food exceeded market expectations, sending its shares nearly 3 pct higher.

Chief executive Stuart Rose, who parachuted into the retailer in May 2004 to fend off Sir Philip Green's audacious 9.1 bln stg takeover approach, said he expects 'very challenging' UK trading conditions in the short term and expressed concern about the possibility of a further quarter-point rise in UK interest rates to 6 pct.

'Retailers don't like rate rises. We've had five in a row now -- clearly they're unhelpful and if another one comes along it will make life more difficult,' he told reporters.

For the 13 weeks to June 30, the group, which trades from about 460 UK stores and 150 overseas, saw its total sales increase 7 pct, with UK sales up 6.4 pct and international sales up 14.8 pct.

Total UK sales on a like-for-like basis, which strips out the impact of new and closed space, increased 2.0 pct.

Within this, non-food (clothing and home) like-for-like sales were up 2.9 pct, better than analysts' consensus forecast for 1 pct growth.

M&S said it consolidated non-food market share gains made over the last year, despite strong comparative numbers and disruption to 3 mln square feet of trading space from a continuing store refurbishment programme that will see 70 pct of the group's UK store portfolio upgraded for the Christmas period. The group is also on track to add 4.5 pct of new space this year.

Like-for-like food sales were up 0.7 pct. Although this was a touch below analysts' consensus forecast of 1 pct, M&S said it still won market share.

However, the first-quarter outturn in both divisions represents a slowdown from growth of 4.6 pct for non-food and 3.0 pct for food in the fourth quarter of the previous financial year, itself a slowdown on its third-quarter performance.

'Rising interest rates, general uncertainty over consumer spending and extreme weather conditions combined to make market conditions particularly volatile over the quarter,' said the CEO.

Last November, when rival retailers were blaming an unusually warm autumn for poor sales, Rose famously declared 'weather is for wimps'.

Today he insisted 'there's weather and weather', noting last month was the wettest June since records began in 1914.

'At the end of the day, when you've got photographs of people pumping around in boats from Carlisle through to Hexham, clearly it's been extreme weather, something which we didn't anticipate,' he said.

'We've done no more discounting than we would normally do but you don't need to be a genius to work out that not many of us have been rushing out in June to buy a pair of hot pants or a T-shirt, so in that respect it's been more difficult,' he added. 'Conversely... we sold a lot of umbrellas, a lot of raincoats and quite a few galoshes.'

Rose claimed group like-for-like sales growth of 2 pct is 'a pretty robust performance' when compared to last year's first quarter growth of 8.2 pct.

He said the mid-season sale will start as planned in two or three weeks, with the traditional end-of-season sale slated for the end of August.

'You should take note of the fact that we're not on sale (now),' he said in a thinly disguised dig at competitors.

At 11.47 am, shares in M&S, down 15 pct over the last two months, were up 16 pence at 648-1/2 pence, valuing the business at 11.0 bln stg, on relief the group did not issue a profit warning.

Analysts at Citigroup reckon M&S' first-quarter clothing trends will prove to be well ahead of industry norms and believe the group should deliver one of the best Christmas 2007 trends from the industry.

They held their pretax profit forecast at 1.09 bln stg for the year to the end of March 2008 and their forecast for the following year at 1.20 bln stg, reiterating their 'buy' recommendation.

However, analysts at Merrill Lynch remain sellers of the stock. 'The problem for M&S is that it is investing its balance sheet in driving its top line, and evidence that this will be harder work, and potentially higher risk, in future will continue to weigh on the shares,' they told clients.

Meanwhile, Rose said he is unsure if fashion designer George Davies, the man behind M&S' successful Per Una range, is preparing to stand down from the retailer later this year -- as reported by a Sunday newspaper.

'The truth of the matter is I haven't a clue,' he said. 'I rang George to ask him what was going on and he said he hadn't spoken to anybody.'

Rose hopes to meet Davies this week.

'George is George, Per Una is a big business with hundreds of people in it -- it's been integrated into M&S. He's a man of 65, who at some point I'm sure will think about what he wants to do,' Rose said.

M&S' trading update was issued ahead of this afternoon's annual shareholders' meeting.

At the AGM, the board could take some flak over its pay arrangements after some shareholder groups expressed concern over the earnings per share targets that determine the payouts under M&S' performance share plan.

However, the retailer appears to have defused a potentially serious row by agreeing to set tougher targets.

Source: hemscott