Designer's styles reflect first nations teachings

Your clothing reflects your lifestyle, says a first nations designer who has created custom designs for royalty, celebrities -- and plenty of regular folks.

"It reflects what's important to you -- your own personal values," says Regina designer Tracey George Heese, who designs under the Timeless Shadows label.

Traditional and contemporary first nations apparel appeals to first nations and non-aboriginals alike.

"It doesn't matter what background you come from," Heese insists.

"The teachings of first nations have to do with harmony and balance. And I really believe that regardless of your nationality, you can reflect that within the clothing that you're wearing."

There's definitely a market for first nations fashion designs, says Heese.

"I believe so. Now that it has become acceptable to be Indian, for one thing. The views of the greater society have improved. And I feel that the clothing has played a role in bringing about that awareness."

There's a huge international market as well, especially in the United States, Germany and Japan, she points out.

Heese is so confident demand for first nations apparel will continue to grow, she plans to work on her master's degree on a topic related to first nations clothing and identity.

Heese currently works full time as a group facilitator for Regina Work Preparation, a non-profit organization helping individuals either find work, go back to school, or get into a program. So for now, creating custom designs is done in her "spare" time. But eventually, Heese says her goal is to transform her design work into a full-time job.

Heese's passion for creating first nations apparel began as a child.

"My grandmother was a beader, and she did moccasins, and outfits, and jewelry, and all kinds of stuff. And she got me stringing beads. I was probably two years old stringing beads -- sitting beside her when she was doing moccasins," she recalls. "So that's where that part -- the desire to bead and design -- comes from."

Heese has been sewing for 28 years.

"It was my mother and my older sister that taught me how to use a sewing machine," she says.

"I really believe that it was my grandmother and the support of my adopted family that has in many ways given me this, with regards to the business designing. They taught me a skill," Heese says. "And I think it's a God-given talent; but I've had to work at it."

She started designing powwow regalia about 14 years ago.

"And that was, in many ways, a reconnection to my heritage -- finding out more about individuals and their colours, their Indian names, their symbols of protection -- that kind of thing, and implementing or including those things into whatever it was I was designing for them. That became my path back to my own personal heritage as well," she says.

Over the years, Heese says about 95 per cent of the first nations apparel/regalia she's designed has been men's ribbon shirts, which range in price from $150 to $250.

"I've lost count as to how many I've done in the last 14 years. I'm sure it's over 500," she estimates.

"And they're all individual. That's the other thing. A lot of the stuff that I love doing is for a specific person for a specific purpose. So, it may be a grad, and it's this young girl and this young guy. Or, it's this gentleman who has this sort of ceremony coming up, and he needs this garment. And then I go to work."

When creating a man's ribbon shirt, it takes her five to seven hours to sew the base of the shirt.

"I may not be a fast sewer, but part of it has to do with making sure that it's right," Heese says, describing herself as a tailor. "There's so much involved."

Knowing the wearer's Indian name and his colours helps Heese decide what fabric to buy.

"And so I go out and buy three metres of that fabric," she says.

She described the creative process: "I first pray. Then I visualize what it is that he's told me [about himself]. And then I begin. Sometimes I'll sketch it out and other times I just go to work. It depends on what it is."

It's crucial to be in the right frame of mind when working on a design, Heese says.

"I really believe that my thoughts and my words go into that garment. So when I'm working on it, I can't be drinking; I can't be grouchy -- because I feel that goes into the garment," she explains.

Every garment has a message, Heese says. "And it reflects the individual."

For women, Heese is best known for her shawls, which range from $300 to $500. One of her shawls was presented to Princess Anne, another to then lieutenant-governor Lynda Haverstock.

Creating a woman's shawl is much like designing a man's ribbon shirt, Heese says.

"I think of the individual. I pray about it. I generally will smudge all the materials from the scissors to the space that I'm in creating that garment," she says.

Inspiration can come from the individual or from the materials being used.

"It shows itself to me, and I see that's what I'm supposed to make," Heese says.

For shawls, she uses ribbons, shells, fringe, applique work, and bead work.

Her ribbon shirts have featured everything from hide to elk teeth, porcupine quills, horse hair, shells, bone beads, beads, ribbons and fringe.

At this point, Heese says she can still work with all colours.

"Some people have found that black is a difficult colour to work with, depending on which tribe you're from," she explains. " I happen to be Cree, and in the Cree culture, black many times can represent death. And that's why some women have a difficult time working with it. But I've also been taught black means 'night' and black also means 'victory.' "

For Heese, coming up with the design is the most enjoyable part of the creative process. Actually putting the garment together is the most difficult, she says.

"Staying true to the vision that I have in my head or on paper, that's the most difficult."

Source: Canada.com